Mostly Music too

Friday, September 06, 2002


FERRARI, Chapter V
Being always intent on stimulating my interest in business, my father took advantage of the occasion of accompanying me as far as Bolzano to give my a taste for attending the fairs which they used to hold there four times a year. He chose the fair of S. Bartolomeo, since it was the most brilliant and pleasing of them all. We left therefore, going by stages from Roveredo to Trent, then San Michele, Egna, Bronzuolo and finally Bolzano. This is a quite considerable and rich city, as much for its fairs, as for its geographical position, which allows it to do business without great difficulty with Switzerland, Alsace, Bavaria, Carinthia, Carniola and the with northern part of Italy.
The surroundings of Bolzano are picturesque; the soil is fruitful, and even at fifty miles north of Roveredo we must give them the advantage in the production of grains, fruits, vegetables etc. etc.
Their silks and tobaccos are not worth much, but the wines which the Bolzanesi make are exquisite, and they drink them copiously with merriment. They have a proverb which they repeat and put into practice daily:
Qui bene bibit bene dormit
Qui bene dormit non peccat;
Et qui non peccat in Paradisum volat.

I stayed there about eight days, and as I was not able to be of any use to my father I asked permission to go to my destiny; he granted this, and I left with horse, seat and guide, commended to the Reverend Father the Prior and the Prelate and Most Reverend Father Abbot of the Benedictines of Mariaberg. This monastery is found in the Val Venosta, just a hundred miles from Bolzano. We were three days journeying to get there, and it wasn't much, considering that the roads are rocky, badly kept, and almost always climbing upwardsi. Eighty of those miles offer a perpetual monotony; one passes through the lugubrious and dispopulated city of Merano, which would give Pulcinella hypochondria; after which one enters and exits valley after valley, seeing nothing but the same sort of trees, greenery and boulders; sometimes one can go ten to fifteen miles without seeing a house or living ruin; a kind of little river runs continually, slow and mute, which makes you cold, or rather chills you.
But at Val Venosta however there is a complete change of scenery. Slaunders is the first village which is found on the right, built on a great rock; from there the little city of Glurentz can be seen not far off, built as a square, girded with a wall and four gates on the sides which are always open and without any sentinels; it was under the orders of a captain who had no other soldiers to command but his wife and children. Beyond Glurentz is seen the entrance to the Valle Enghedina, which leads in a few hours to Choira, the capital of the Grigioni. Straight ahead, and three miles from Slaunders, the Church and Monastery of Mariaberg faces you in an elegant and pompous perspective, situated a vertical mile above the plain of the valley. At the foot of that mountain is seen the village of Purgaitz which contains few houses but a beautiful little Church and a little fort where a judge resides with two invalid soldiers, who have nothing to do but eat, drink and sleep, since it has never happened that these heros have been called out for a brawl, a theft or a homicide. The good inhabitants of these valleys being so good, religious, and honest, there is no need for force to keep them at peace. They are moreover so devoted to their Sovereign as the beggars of Naples to San Gennaro; and if they find themselves sick or in misfortune they pray God that he may beseech the Emperor to allow them the grace of which they have need. If you offer them alms of a single penny, they load you, almost molest you with thanks and blessings; and say in their peasant tongue, and from the bottom of their heart: Vergelt's God in Himmel ham; vergelt's God, truila, truila, tansend male - God give you thanks in heaven, God give you thanks, three time, three times, a thousand times! To see them on Sunday at Mass, the devotion with which they genuflect, bow at the consecration, elevation and communion, kissing the earth, even, and giving tremendous blows of contrition on their chests, as if they had committed horrible sins, is a thing to edify you and make you laugh at the same time! O blessed mountaineers, how I admire you and envy you!


Chapter V

Departure from Roveredo - Brief Description of Bolzano and the Valleys which
lead to Mariaberg - Part of my Stay in this Monastery - School and Music


Being always intent on stimulating my interest in business, my father took advantage of the occasion of accompanying me as far as Bolzano to give my a taste for attending the fairs which they used to hold there four times a year. He chose the fair of S. Bartolomeo, since it was the most brilliant and pleasing of them all. We left therefore, going by stages from Roveredo to Tret, then San Michele, Egna, Bronzuolo and finally Bolzano. This is a quite considerable and rich city, as much for its fairs, as for its geographical position, which allows it to do business without great difficulty with Switzerland, Alsace, Bavaria, Carinthia, Carniola and the with northern part of Italy.
The surroundings of Bolzano are picturesque; the soil is fruitful, and even at fifty miles north of Roveredo we must give them the advantage in the production of grains, fruits, vegetables etc. etc.
Their silks and tobaccos are not worth much, but the wines which the Bolzanesi make are exquisite, and they drink them copiously with merriment. They have a proverb which they repeat and put into practice daily:
Qui bene bibit bene dormit
Qui bene dormit non peccat;
Et qui non peccat in Paradisum volat.

I stayed there about eight days, and as I was not able to be of any use to my father I asked permission to go to my destiny; he granted this, and I left with horse, seat and guide, commended to the Reverend Father the Prior and the Prelate and Most Reverend Father Abbot of the Benedictines of Mariaberg. This monastery is found in the Val Venosta, just a hundred miles from Bolzano. We were three days journeying to get there, and it wasn't much, considering that the roads are rocky, badly kept, and almost always climbing upwardsi. Eighty of those miles offer a perpetual monotony; one passes through the lugubrious and dispopulated city of Merano, which would give Pulcinella hypochondria; after which one enters and exits valley after valley, seeing nothing but the same sort of trees, greenery and boulders; sometimes one can go ten to fifteen miles without seeing a house or living ruin; a kind of little river runs continually, slow and mute, which makes you cold, or rather chills you.
But at Val Venosta however there is a complete change of scenery. Slaunders is the first village which is found on the right, built on a great rock; from there the little city of Glurentz can be seen not far off, built as a square, girded with a wall and four gates on the sides which are always open and without any sentinels; it was under the orders of a captain who had no other soldiers to command but his wife and children. Beyond Glurentz is seen the entrance to the Valle Enghedina, which leads in a few hours to Choira, the capital of the Grigioni. Straight ahead, and three miles from Slaunders, the Church and Monastery of Mariaberg faces you in an elegant and pompous perspective, situated a vertical mile above the plain of the valley. At the foot of that mountain is seen the village of Purgaitz which contains few houses but a beautiful little Church and a little fort where a judge resides with two invalid soldiers, who have nothing to do but eat, drink and sleep, since it has never happened that these heros have been called out for a brawl, a theft or a homicide. The good inhabitants of these valleys being so good, religious, and honest, there is no need for force to keep them at peace. They are moreover so devoted to their Sovereign as the beggars of Naples to San Gennaro; and if they find themselves sick or in misfortune they pray God that he may beseech the Emperor to allow them the grace of which they have need. If you offer them alms of a single penny, they load you, almost molest you with thanks and blessings; and say in their peasant tongue, and from the bottom of their heart: Vergelt's God in Himmel ham; vergelt's God, truila, truila, tansend male - God give you thanks in heaven, God give you thanks, three time, three times, a thousand times! To see them on Sunday at Mass, the devotion with which they genuflect, bow at the consecration, elevation and communion, kissing the earth, even, and giving tremendous blows of contrition on their chests, as if they had committed horrible sins, is a thing to edify you and make you laugh at the same time! O blessed mountaineers, how I admire you and envy you! How appropriate seem these two strophes:
Happy age of gold,
fair ancient innocence,
when virtue was no enemy
to pleasure!

By pomp and decorum
we find ourselves oppressed
and make ourselves
our own servitude.
Metastasio, Demetrio.

I left my guide and rig at Purgaitz, and went up by foot to Mariaberg, the road being too steep and stony to go up in a carriage. Having entered the Monastery, I sent my references to the appropriate persons and was received with the greatest affability. The Father Prior presented me to his Reverence the Prelate, before whom, according to custom, I bent my right knee, kissing the gleaming and blessed ring which he was wearing. I was then introduced to the school master, Father Mariano Stecker, a young man of twenty-five years, of peasant origins, but with the best manners. He had an aquiline nose, grey eyes, red hair, but all together a sweet and pleasing physiognomy. He did not know Italian and I did not know German at all; so that at the beginning we communicated with the little Latin which I had learned. But not many weeks passed before I was making myself understood, marvelously well, in the elegant German-Tirolian dialect. (Author's Note: Stecker was already at that time a great musician, and by studying Fux and other masters of theory he later became a great composer, especially for organ fugues.) I guessed my father's intention in sending me there, so that I might be safe from the fair sex, since there were no other women in that place but three ugly old peasant women to milk the cows, make cream and butter, to wash the laundry and to do other typically feminine tasks; but he had gravely erred in believing that he would distance me from music. The rule at this establishment was to not admit any brother or cleric if he did not know how to sing, or play some instrument extempore; the laymen were admitted there as doormen, cooks or servants, and without knowing music; but there were always twenty or more musical fathers and brothers who took as boarders thirty-two scholars, provided with everything, except for wine, and without tips or gifts, for only ninety florins a year per head, being obliged, beyond their maintenance, to instruct them in the German and Latin tongues, in arithmetic and in whatever branch of music was practiced by these monks.
A day did not pass in which there was not some service with music in the church of this Madonna. I immediately took lessons on violin and viola, and a little violone and French horn. During the free hours from school Father Stecker was good enough to give me now and then some harpsichord leassons, or permitted me to practice on his instrument. This was a spinet or clavichord of three and a half octaves, with hammers of tin. In spite of the poverty of the instrument I delighted in hearing the sonatas of Schobert, of Metzger etc., the fugues of Handel, of Bach, etc., and with what precision and spirit that brother played them! He had a precious collection of music which he had nabbed and copied, and permitted me to copy everything which pleased me as well. It wasn't long before I became the confident and accomplice in Stecker's musical thefts.
Among the monks in that monastery there was a certain Father Bonifazio, the fattest man I had ever seen. His body resembled a barrel, his chin rolled halfway down his chest, his hands looked like two feather pillows, and his fingers like so many Verona sausages. He played the violin and harpsichord like a bagpiper, and sang like a barn owl. But he had his own wealth, and spent considerable money to have sent from Leipzig, Frankfurt, and Mannheim the newly published music which he desired. He even had sent from Augsburg a grand piano of four and a half octaves, a phenomenon which had never yet been seen in the Tirol.
Father Mariano was an intimate friend of the Father Prior; he, according to the rule of that institution possessed a skeleton-key with the right to open at will all the bed chambers of the Monastery. He lent this key to my maestro from time to time, who not obliged by the night duties of these monks, used to choose the moment to open Bonifazio's chamber when they were at first matins; he took and carried into the school the music which he desired; at second matins, he brought it back in the above-mentioned room, without its owner noticing. What is more, Father Mariano would sometimes visit Father Bonifazio and play on his pianoforte the works he had copied. The disappointed Bonifazio went into a rage, not knowing how someone else could have the music which he believed he was the sole possessor of.
As soon as I was informed of this scam I offered my assistance, which was accepted with pleasure. Stecker often came to wake me at midnight, and I would get up, ready as a puppy and content and happy to honestly steal the music of someone who was not able to make good use of it.
I had great difficulty in the beginning, but then I accustomed my eye and ear to how to abbreviate, and wrote as fast as my preceptor; and copying in that way three sonatas for harpsichord or pianoforte in one hour was no big deal for us. It's true that that music was not so long, or so filled with notes and accidentals as is that of the present day.
I had moreover the pleasure of taking breakfast every Sunday with my preceptor; he treated me to fresh eggs, toast and butter; I served him the coffee which I had brought along with me from Roveredo, and I made it not with water but with cream, which produces an exquisite beverage, and which I recommend to all gluttons. (Author's note: The cream at Mariaberg was skimmed from pure cow's or goat's milk, and not from the corrupt and adulterated milk which is sold with impunity in all the streets and dairies of London!)
After breakfast we put ourselves to filling out the abbreviations; then to church to make music; then again to writing, lunching, writing again; back to church again; and thus passed the Sundays, with holy religion, good meals and divine music. Copying, filling out the sketches, and seeing and hearing the copied music performed was of unutterable advantage to me in reading at sight.
But with such occasions and temptations what could I become! Goodbye, office, goodbye, silk-rooms, goodbye, deluded hopes of my father. Viva la musica!


Thursday, September 05, 2002


Chapter IV.

Promise of Matrimony - Return to Roveredo - Death of my Mother - Scabrous Situation of my Father.

A few months before leaving Verona I was invited to the nuptials of two brothers of Don Pandolfi who with him made up a family in the same house, and seeing that they were so contented and happy, the notion of taking a wife popped into my head as well. I confided my plan to my friend Gujerotti, and he suggested to me his sister Giuditta, who was boarding in a convent of nuns. I told him that first I wanted to get to know her and let her get to know me. Thus I wrote her, and she with a little bribe seduced the sister doorkeeper to let me, along with her brother, into the parlor. The young virgin was already present; she came to the grate, I bowed to her, she did the same: "your servant! - your servant!" She pleased me, I pleased her, and with a mutual smile and no further conversation we agreed to be betrothed. She was eleven, I was thirteen and a half. In leaving the parlor we came face to face with the wolf: the prioress was at a window. She saw us, became suspicious, and informed the family of my friend, and from that moment on I never saw my dear betrothed again. It bothered me terribly, because she was truly very beautiful, and as long as I was at Verona I did not cease to yearn for her. What became of her hasty love I do not know; only that mine must have vanished on my trip, since having arrived at Roveredo I thought of Giuditta no more.
It is easy to imagine the consolation and delight which I felt in seeing my fatherland once more and in embracing my parents and relatives, but the anxiety of providing evidence of my progress in music and further of showing off my silvery and very high voice topped everything. I was hoping to induce my father to allow me to devote myself entirely to music, instead of commerce; but it was all for naught.
My mother, as anxious as I was to hear me and have me heard, had put together for my arrival a little recital, inviting some freinds among whom was Pulli, my first teacher.
When I began to sing I felt hoarse. I tried and tried again, but in vain, or rather I could not begin a note. Pulli came up to me, and having as an old master already discovered from my speaking voice that the change of voice was upon me, exhorted me not to force it, since I might lose it. I wept like a baby, and could do nothing further that evening. To console me my dear father permitted me to take flute lessons from Signor Francesco Untersteiner, a miserable player! Yet after only one month I played the things from those days passably well with a one-key flute.
My mother then tried to recommence her jokes between the Salesian father and mother Teresa, without noticing that having lived for two consecutive years in a large city had opened my eyes and my mind a bit, and that my ideas were beginning to develop. I took pity on her however, once only, and went with her to confess with the Salesian, then in the evening she left me alone in the parlor with Teresa. She, as she had done before, told me my sins; I thanked her ironically, and then looking at her keenly I winked at her. She became as red as a lobster, and ran off immediately to tell my mother of my words and gestures. I then became suspicious, and returning home declared to my mother that I wanted to change my confessor and that I was too old to be paying attention to the chatter of a Theatine. That was enough that I never heard any further talk of the Salesian, or of Teresa.
Up until that point my father's business had had the wind in its sails; he had saved money, bought a nice field, and a filatojo or silk mill, where he employed at that time up to twenty-five or more people. He had also set up two brothers at Verona, one a broker the other a silk merchant, which had cost him a pretty penny. But his first disgrace was to take into his house and as a partner his brother Giambattista, and to change the firm from Francesco and Co. to Ferrari Brothers.
Giambattista had a wife, two daughters and a son, the last of which became the bane of my father and of my brothers and myself. Sometime thereafter my uncle died, and my father had the weakness of taking for a partner my uncle's son, to agree to give him five hundred florins a year in salary, a share of the profits, free housing etc. etc. He also arranged a marriage with Signora Teresa Fuiten of Trent, heiress of thirty thousand florins, which sum was given to my cousin under the responsibility of my father.
At that time there were four of us brothers still living, and four sisters, two of whom were twins who then died in infancy. There were two others mouths to feed at the stove; the uncle who was a priest, and a marriageable aunt, who, both favored by nature with a happy appetite and a very refined taste, employed them marvelously well, choosing the best foods and the best wines, especially since it cost them nothing.
The worst then that could happen to my father was to lose his consort; she finished her life at the premature age of thirty-seven years, leaving her husband in the greatest desolation and all the affairs of his numerous family in turmoil. My mother was grieved not only by her relations but by everyone who knew her; for even if she was overly devout, as I said above, she nevertheless had a generous heart and looked after everything that pertained to her family as the most active and economical house wife possible. My father's situation then became one to cause pity. My uncle the priest occupied himself with nothing but making good wine; he went walking, hunting, to the confessional, and every evening to play trumps or tressette, in the house of Vigagnoni, with his penitents. My aunt was always with her rosary, with the office of the Madonna in her hand, or with her fingers in the holy water as soon as she saw a font. My two remaining sisters were sickly and pious to the nth degree. (Author's note: I will never forget my sister Barbara, when I took her to Saco to hear an opera buffa there, performed marvelously bu the noble dilettants of that little spot; she came along only for my sake, but it was observed by those who were next to her that she never raised her eyes to the stage, nor moved them from the catechism which she had brought along, and which she read and reread until the curtain fell!) My cousin, humbug and hypocrite, was looking forward to when he might undo his uncle and benefactor.
Of four brothers I was the oldest, but still too young to give assistance to my father; and beside I hated business and adored music, and instead of frequenting the office and the silk rooms I was almost always at the harpsichord or with the flute at my lips. My voice had changed and I exercised it as much as possible; Pulli counseled me wisely not to force it on the high notes, but to seek little by little to unite the chest voice with the head voice, the falsetto, in order to acquire, he said, the violoncello of human voices, the Tenor. But still other nuisances were disturbing my poor father not a little. Since there was no longer a mistress of the house the affairs of the family remained in the care of my unhappy sisters and my emaciated aunt, the three of them not making up one between them. I, in addition to music's distraction, had also taken up the custom of going, now and then, to visit the silk working women, and their conversation interested me more than the account books and the organzas of the business. Among these young women there was a certain Orsolina Vitadèo, daughter of a wig-maker who lived two doors down from my father's house. She was polite and striking, and she struck my eye and pierced my heart a little more than Giuditta of Verona. The sly girl noticed this; it didn't bother her, nor was it unwelcome. Not being able to visit such a family openly, I visited with her when she came to work the silk.
One evening as it was getting dark I came out of a granary and clambered like a cat up the neighboring house, then launching and dragging myself with my legs apart up on the roof, I arrived at the window of my beauty’s granary. I jumped in, but in jumping bumped into the heads for the wigs and into other obstacles, making a great clatter. Vitadèo heard, and believing that it was thieves he armed himself with a large club to assault them, but tender Orsolina, knowing what was going on, and concerned for my bones, confessed everything to her father. He came up into the granary, and even if he was a little angry, he couldn't keep himself from laughing at seeing me so frightened, agitated and confused by my imprudence. He shouted at me more for having exposed myself to the danger of falling to the street than for having tried to make love with his daughter. She wept with compassion for me; he embraced her, pardoned her, then accompanied me from his house to mine and made me promise that that I would no longer get up to such tricks.
Informed of this, and of what I related a little earlier, and seeing that he couldn't make of me what he had desired, my father proposed to me that I should go for two years to the monastery of the Benedictine Fathers at Mariaberg, to learn the German language; but his aim was to remove me from the tempations of music, of Orsolina, and of the fair sex in general. And as I was seduced by a great desire to travel, by curiosity about living in a monastery and learning the German language there, without thinking about anything else I immediately accepted the offer, and my departure was fixed for the fifteenth of September.


Wednesday, September 04, 2002


Chapter III.
My Father's Vow - Sanctuary on Montebaldo - My Education at Verona - Pasquinades



My brother Lodovico caught a mild case of smallpox, and of the two pox which he had one injured his right eye, which caused him to lose his sight. My unhappy father, due to this misfortune, made a vow to the Madonna della Corona to visit that sanctuary with his wife and two elder daughters if Lodovico was healed. He spared neither means nor gold; but there was no remedy. In spite of this he believed that he owed an offering to the Virgin and resolved to leave, since my mother had decided to send me to Verona. I thus went with them.
We left Roveredo in the morning, and stayed in Ala for a few hours, a prosperous and pleasing city. At night we slept at Peri, a little village, but well- situated; it is about a quarter mile from the Adige, beyond which is the Rivalta gate, that is two barks covered with tables for transporting passagers and merchandise back and forth across the river. Facing Peri one sees the very tall Montebaldo, which protects Lago Garda; halfway up the hill the canonry and the church or the Sanctuary of the Madonna della Corona appear.
We stayed at the post house, kept by a certain Signor Ventura, a placid and hospitable man; he gave us an exquisite meal, at a good price, and what is more some excellent vin santo, made in the house. Two silk makers of that place, correspondents of my father, dined with us, and chatting after the meal they were asked if they could give us any correct information on the history of the Madonna della Corona. One answered that the Sanctuary appeared unexpectedly one day to the unutterable surprise of the vicinity and of the wayfarers; and that the great miracles done by that Virgin were innumerable.
The other added without cerimony that the story was false, but that a hermit and his friends having gone up Montebaldo and having brought up the machinery with ropes had built the canonry and the church in secret in the forest. Then, having cut down the trees that was covering it one night, the above-mentioned Sanctuary appeared in full view the next day; that he had heard tell of the quantity of miracles done by that Virgin, but that he had not seen a single one. (Author's note: However what is not
false is that after the battle of Rivoli Napoleon miraculously brought his army over Montebaldo, and with the large artillery tirata su a contrappeto, and with a cannon of immense calibre, whose roar brought panic to the entire valley).
This did not discourage my parents in the least. They left at the next dawn with my sisters and with the postmaster, who courteously accompanied them beyond the Adige, to the Riva Alta gate, where they found the asses already in order and ready to slowly ascend that very steep mountain. At a mile from the Sanctuary they were obliged to leave the asses in a kind of shelter, only being able to ascend there on foot. Having arrived at the church and made their devotions they returned to Peri and from there to Roveredo, with the hope of finding Lodovico cured by a miracle; but they found him as unhappy as they had left him.
In the meantime I had gone with the carriage passing through Volargne, the end of the Tirolian Alps, where the rich plain of Venetian Lombardy majestically presents itself. Having arrived at Verona, I had myself brought immediately to my fated preceptor, the justly venerated Don Antonio Pandolfi. He instructed me a little better in Italian and Latin, gave me an idea of mathematics, of geography, of Muratori's moral philosophy, and of the works of Metastasio, which interested me more than anything. But the enthusiasm and the prevailing taste which I had for music detracted not a little from the instructions of Don Pandolfi.
Cubri was given to me as my master for solfege, a dull and knavish priest, good only for bringing a beginner along; still he gave me lessons in accompaniment, and after a year I knew my solfege, accompanied tolerably at sight, took lessons every weekday and holiday, and paid a Bavarian dollar for every sixteen lessons.
My precepter and his friends seeing that Cubri could do no more for me, I was given as my singing master, Marcolla, an excellent professor, and Borsaro, much better at the keyboard than Cubri; I paid them the same price for every twelve lessons, but my father's money was better spent, since in the following year while I remained at Verona I made rapid and visible progress.
At this time something happened which has always weighed on my heart, and confessing which give me some consolation.
Shortly before I went to Verona my mother wrote there to the archpriest of Santa Maria Antica, to ask him to be my confessor while I was in that city. He agreed to her request with pleasure, and I went often to him immediately after my arrival, but rarely thereafter; as much because he seemed to me a sort of Salesian father, as through a circumstance which I am about to tell, and which proved to me that his principles were not liberal.
He and other fanatics or religious bigots encouraged me to despise, rather to hate the Jews, calling them the greatest enemies of we Christians. It didn't take much to persuade me, and when I went walking through Verona with my companions and we met a Jew, we would mock him with impunity, with words, with gestures, now caricaturing the songs of his Synagogue, now the shouts that those poor folk make in their ghetto or in the streets.
One day, while I was playing ball with some boys in the courtyard of the Palazzo Zenobio, a Jew passed by there with a sack on his shoulders, shouting as usual "old clothes!" We left our game and began to torment that poor man; he angered and upset, took his burden from his shoulders to throw it at me, who was closest to him; but I, younger and more agile than him, ran out of the palazzo; he followed me, but when I was at a certain distance, I took a stone from the street, and threw it at his head. Stunned by the blow and the wound he stopped, and I escaped to Don Antonio's house, passing through the pharmacy which his two brothers kept.
It was not long until the mistreated merchant of old clothes presented himself in the same shop, complaining justly and bitterly of me. My precepter came down, and hearing my misdeed obliged me to ask pardon of him, and give that little money which I had in my wallet. The Israelite was satisfied, and after being treated by Pandolfi he went back to the Ghetto.
Don Antonio then brought me in his chamber, and chastised me severely, making me understand that I ought not to mingle with any but those of my own religion, nor to have scorn for any other, and above all for that of the Jews, since we Christians as well believe in the the old Testament. And further that I should note that our Savior himself was born of a Jewish Virgin.
That was enough to emancipate me from the prejudices of my Archpriest and his like; when I later got to know some of those persecuted people I considered them always as my friends.
In that spring an opera seria was presented at the Teatro Filarmonica. Danzi, in her first youth, a singer of surprising agility, was there, David, father of the present David, in his flower, as well as Paccherotti, the model for singers of that time; in spite of all that the opera was a failure.
Since I have spoken of the Theatre, I will tell here two rather biting pasquinades.
When maestro Mortellari left England, he left London with Cavalier Pisani, a noble Venetian and his patron. Having arrived at Padua the good Cavalier saw that his protege was engaged to write an opera and a ballet there. The company was certainly poor, but Mortellari was one of those stubborn old men who won't adapt themselves to the good taste of the day, and what's more his music was weak and bare of harmony. He made a fiasco, a grand fiasco, and was served with this compliment:
Singers without voice,
Dancers without legs,
Music by Mortellari!

The last appearance that the celebrated Mombelli, known as the tenor dei terzetti, made, was Pergola in Florence; he was over seventy years old, and still wanted to sing; the little voice that he still had was trembling, and falling in a disgusting way, etc. etc. Since he had been for twenty years the idol of the Florentines he was respected, but when he went to the theatre the second evening to get in costume he found on the door of his dressing room, written in red pencil:
At seventy, one doesn't sing or dance!

Now, changing the tone, but not the subject, I ask permission to tell another which I find brilliant.
The Republic of Venice had been on the brink of its precipice for more than a century; various senators with good sense and great politicians had died or retired; some dandies with little intellect and ignoramuses and taken their place, and in consequence the affairs of the Republic were going to the dogs. One daythe initials reproduced below could be seen affixed to a door of the Palace of the Doge:
PPP
III
RRR
G.

These produced great suspicion and fear on the part of the new senators. There were spies at the balls; secret denunciations one after the other; arrests everywhere.
Finally they offered a great sum of money and pardon to whomever might be able to explain the meaning of the above-mentioned letters. Their author had no need of money and neither did he trust the promised pardon. In consequence, some time later, he caused the letters to be filled out as follows:

Patres Patriae Perierunt.
Iuvenes Ignari Imperant.
Respublica Recens Ruit
Gratis.





Tuesday, September 03, 2002


Ferrari, Chapter 2


Chapter II. My Grandfather - The Establishment and Matrimony of my Father - My Childhood- Bird Hunting

My grandfather was born in Roveredo, which I was told, he never left. I did not have the advantage of knowing him, but I heard so much of him from my father and from others that I am able to say a few things about him. He was trained for business, in which he spent his entire life. He was moreover a complete connoisseur of the qualities of silk, for which he had a singular eye and feel, nor did he ever lack for honored and lucrative enterprises, by which he could maintain his family properly. He was, as well, a religious man, though far from a bigot or a pedant. He used to say to his children: Let it be a law to you to never lie, nor to use subterfuges; always do your duty; if you are fathers or bosses, command; if you are children or servants, obey. Be faithful to the Government which protects you. If you are presented to whatever family, behave with the same affability and decency on the fiftieth time as on the first; and never be proud of your honor and of the talents which you have acquired. Always be ready for appointments well before the time which has been set. Trust in your religion; don't distract yourself in desiring to plumb its mysteries, because everything is a mystery in this world. Have no animosity toward the other religions, for they are all good, since they all aim toward the same end. Read and reread the divine morality of Jesus Christ; nourish yourselves with those sublime and natural sentiments and principles; and what is more important, put them into practice yourselves!
Then that brave and valiant man disappeared in a flash, leaving five sons and a daughter. The first-born, Bartolomeo, he had already made a priest, according to the custom in Italy, and trained the other four for business. The youngest, Francesco, was the most able, active and industrious of all of them. Endowed with the sweetest temperament, and always intent on his duty, he easily deserved his father's love and the goodwill of everyone. Assisted by his father’s unending concern and excited by his father's example, he was able to learn so that when he had the bitter shock of losing him, he was not only able to provide for himself, but also for all his brothers.
He took a little house on the Piazza del Podestà where he kept a little silk business, and by force of effort, economy and industry he saved within a few years a fair amount of money. He was then supported by the noble Giuseppe-Maria Pedrigotti of Saco, and by his nephew, the noble Angelo Rosmini of Rovereto. These two cavaliers had him rent a grand house, called the Casa Rossa, which seemed truly made to order for his establishment.
In it were all the comforts of life: besides an office, storerooms of every sort, rooms for raising the silk-worms and working the silk, great kettles for spinning and dyeing it, a stable, a shed, a chicken-coop, and a garden full of God's grace. All this costs the firm of Ferrari and Co. only two hundred florins a year in rent, that is about twenty pounds sterling. Franceso thus being situated in a more extensive way, it behooved him to marry and take to wife a certain Maddalena Reisevitz, of a mercantile family, wise, attractive, but a little too devout; he was already religious enough, so that they got on very well and were always happy. The husband looked after the affairs of the business, and left those of the house entirely to the wife, which she was extremely capable of looking after. They had ten children, of which number only the youngest, and that incomparable flower of virtue, myself, are still alive.
From the age of three until the age of five years I went to the school of a certain Siora Checca Smitta, where I learned nothing but playing ball. At five I went to Don Trener to learn to read, write, the catechism, etc. etc. At ten I entered the public schools and at eleven I was awarded as a prize for my memory a beautiful Virgil, well-bound, on the frontispiece of which stood the inscription which follows:
Memoria minuitur nisi exerceas, Jacobe dulcissime!
Such a maxim, which seemed to me, and which later I found to be so true, was of the greatest utility to me; and from that hour on I have never ceased to learn, retain or repeat by memory something; so that I have the consolation of having a memory which is as fresh now as it was when I was twenty years old.
In spite of all this study was not my dominant passion; I had one which prevailed over it and over every boyish diversion.
In the autumn I used to get up with the dawn to go hunting for the little birds, something which is done in the Italian Tirol from the beginning of August until the end of December, as much for pleasure as for economy and need. The meat of steer or of gelding mutton are too scarce and too expensive for the poverty of the village, and there is no well-to-do noble or shopkeeper, who during the season, does not have daily on the table a plate of birds or of roast game.
The peasants of those parts make an immense slaughter of chaffinches, blackbirds, thrushes, greenfinches, etc. which they catch in two very cruel ways, which I here describe.
In the clearest paths or passages of the densest thickets they hang a quantity of
snares made of horsehair; they tie each row of these to two tree branches of equal height,
where they believe that the birds must pass to seek food or drink; and thus it happens at every moment, but as soon as the bird has stuck its head through the loop, its open wings pull on it violently, and it is caught by the neck.
Another way of catching the birds is that of setting up beneath the trees and hedges, along the paths, little arches formed by a folding rod, in the midst of which, by a certain curious device, the poor birds are caught by their legs. An owl, native to those rocks, surrounded by twigs covered with lime; horizontal nets, known in every country in Europe, and vertical bird-catching nets, which are not known in England, offer another three ways in which the industrious birders can entertain themselves, or make a living.
The robins are more numerous, and more easily snared, and it is incredible the quantity which they catch and eat in the Italian Tirol, while in the German Tirol were anyone to tough one of those birds, he would be dishonored and insulted. The German Tirolians have a religious respect for the robin, or rather a superstition, since they call it the Virgin Mary’s bird.
Another very pleasant hunt is that of shooting the great wild birds as they fly past, which they do especially a mile from Roveredo, on a little mountain, and in a forest in Valle Longa. The proprietors of these lands choose by convention spots which are a half mile distant from each other, intended for the hunters, and the first of these who arrives is the master of it; nor is there anyone who would desire to go hunting between one post and the next. They sometimes go the evening before to be the first, and sleep under a tree, a hedge, or a rock so as to be ready at sunrise to shoot birds. If the day is serene there are few that go by, but if the weather is cloudy, or rainy, they pass by in the thousands, in swarms that look like clouds. The greater part of these birds are starlings, doves, ducks, and geese; as well as swans, crows and cranes. The first four kinds fly together and in order, but they are so cunning, and so skilled, that if you shoot at them from the front, or from the side, in the blink of an eye the swarm moves as if it were a single bird, and thus avoids death or injury: you need to shoot from the back, once they have passed by, and then they are able to drop twenty or thirty in a single shot. The other kinds fly so high that a shotgun can’t reach them, though they can sometimes be taken with rifles.
It is something incredible to see these peasants arrive at market laden with strings of birds, and even if they sell them at a low price, yet given the quantity which they catch, they earn enough to buy yellow and black corn flour, which is cultivated marvelously in the village, and with this they make the polenta which serves as nutriment for them every day of the year.
In addition to these peasants there are also proprietors of the woods who make a living on such hunts, and who support various peasants, whose job is to set up every day during the season up to a thousand or more snares, and as many arches, and who they then have sell the birds which they catch in the public market.
At the same time in which I used to entertain myself in frequenting all these hunts,I had also a passion for music, which touched my hearing and my heart. I never failed to go to the sung masses or to the other musical functions. If in the summer there was a serenade I used to get up at any hour of the nightand go to the window half naked to listen. If there was a spinet, a violin or a guitar I diverted myself by plucking, to make it whisper; I had even taken a passion for ringing the noonday bell, which was the largest in the city. My mother, discovering the innate sentiment which I already was showing for music, and the plan I had hatched with a close friend to go to Italy to become musicians, made me learn to solmise by myself, secure in her opinion that music could only be an advantage to me in whatever situation in which I might find myself in the world.
At that time, in 1775, a piano had not yet been seen in Roveredo, nor could a harpsichord be rented. There were spinets and clavichords, passable, of three and a half octaves, made by a certain Chiusole, a tobacconist, and a natural genius for mechanical things. My mother asked if he would make me a harpsichord of four and a half octaves; he took on the job for the sum of ninety florins, and succeeded so well that my instrument was admired by the entire city. (Author's note: A florin of the Tirol is worth a little less than two shillings, English money).
I then had for teacher Pulli, a solid professor and a solmiser the like of which I never heard after.
But in addtion to giving me a music teacher she also gave me a confessor. This was the Salesian father of the Zoccolanti, called the blind Padre, because he was; every Sunday she made me go to confess with her; she on one side, and I on the other side of the confessional. Some evenings he took me out to walk and to be pardoned in the church of the nuns at Saco, where there was a certain mother Teresa which passed for a saint; she brought me into the parlor and left me alone with her. This mother Teresa used to tell me my sins. I asked her one evening how she knew them; she answered that she learned them from her guardian Angel. I, innocent, so innocent, and a simpleton like a true Tirolian of those days, believed positively that the saints here below were in contact with the Angels up above. My father, then, more open-minded than his wife, never ceased to tell me about my grandfather; he often repeated that which I said above, in fact he looked for any occasion to inculcate those healthy principles which he himself had realized. Happy to see that I was listening to him, one day he said that if the whole world thought the way my grandfather had, there would be more peace, more morality and more friendship between men, nor would one see the arising at every moment of so many new sects which corrupted the true religion.

Sunday, September 01, 2002


Ferrari, Chapter 1



Part One

Chapter One

Description of the most pleasant part of the southern Italian Tirol to the frontiers of the
German Tirol- Jests etc. - Sonnet of Cavalier Vannetti.

Roveredo or Rovereto, is a little city of Venetian Lombardy, in the Val Lagarina, incorporated a long time since in the Italian Tirol.
The etymology of the name of this city derives from a forest of Roveri, or oaks, which existed there before its foundation, and whose arms correspond exactly to the emblem of Charles II, King of England, though with a different meaning, and which is expressed with a c.r. on either side of an oak tree - C.r. Carolus rex - C.r. civitas Roboreti.
Roveredo contains between eight and nine thousand souls. It has Venice to the east, Milan to the west, Verona to the south, and Innsbruck to the north. The river Adige snakes its way not far off, now humble, now proud: it washes Saco, a kind of port for rafts and a little spot inhabited by many nobility, less than a mile from the end of the town and monastery of the Capuchins of Roveredo. The little river Leno passes from another end along the town of San Tommaso, whose bridge unites the town to the gate and customs of the city.
The Leno is very useful for the manufactures of the inhabitants; but upon the melting of the snows, or after the rains, which are regular there in the autumn, it becomes a rapid and furious torrent, swelling and lifting itself sometimes to twelve feet and more above its usual level, and then it brings terror, havoc and ruin wherever it goes.
In Roveredo there is a castle, a theatre, two hospitals, six monasteries and as many churches, plazas, fountains etc. A Corso embellished by various workshops, and especially by the palaces of the Counts Fedrigotti and Alberti and of the Baron Piamarta, by the theatre itself and by the convent of the Frati Zoccolanti of San Rocco, near by which is found the Palazzina Bridi and a little temple, made on purpose in memory and honor of Palestrina, Haendel, Gluck, Jommelli, Sacchini, Haydn and Mozart. There is there a great number of silk and flour mills which they turn as they please with wheels, and other machines set in motion by the diverted waters of the Leno.
The institution of the normal schools, intended for the study of the Italian, Latin and German languages, and for mathematics, does great honor to the happy memory of Joseph II, who founded it at the end of his reigin. There is there also an academy named "degli Agiati". But before these establishments the Cavaliers Vannetti, Rosmini and Fontana distinguished themselves in belles lettresl and the abbots Tartarotti, Scarperi, and Pederzani, who more or less, brought honor to Italian literature.
The mountains nearby and in the vicinity are steep and rugged, but of a moderate height; in the winter they are covered with snow; in the summer, according to their position with respect to the sun, they display on their back a quantity of vines, mulberry trees olives, citrus, , fruit-bearing trees, beeches and an infinity of oaks. Excavations in their innards have founds immense masses of flint, antimony, granite, and superb marbles painted by nature with one or more colors, and shining like a mirror.
The vegetables, fruits and vines are excellent in all these little villages; the tobacco,
oh the tobacco there is stupendous, absolutely stupendous! At about a mile from Roveredo, in the east one crosses the bridge of San Colombano, which is worth seeing, being made from a single arch, and thrown so to speak from one mountain to the other; a few miles from there one finds seven little springs a few yards one from the other, called the seven Albi, which contribute the most to maintain the perennial waters of the little river, the Leno, which runs a half mile directly under the above-mentioned bridge.
From Rovere to the beginning of the German Tirol it is about twenty-five miles; one goes through Acquaviva, a little village of few houses, but in a picturesque location; then comes Trent, a city renowned as much for its ancient bishopric, as for the Holy Council which was held there in the year 1545, in which the celibacy of priests was definitively established. The bridge over the Adige doesn't give a bad view; not far off is found the village Mezzo-Lombardo. The Cathedral of Santa Maria Maggiore is not to be despised:in it can be seen a nice painting which depicts the Council, and an organ, which though old, and of moderate range, can always give pleasure to those who hear it. The Trentini praise it to the stars, and consider it to be one of the many marvels of Italy, and cite the Duomo of Milan, the Arena or Colosseum of Verona, the Garesendi tower of Bologna, the Vatican of Rome, the Forum of Piedigrotta at Naples, the four bronze horses and Rialto Bridge at Venice and the organ of Trent. These fanatics relate that a celebrated professor having arrived there, desirous of hearing and playing the instrument which was the subject of such ballyhoo, he was introduced in to the church in question; at the sight of the painting he was admiring; but further in observing the majesty of the organ;
and having been brought to the orchestra he essayed some modulations, and in hearing the emanations of the harmonious pipes, and the powerful and at the same time sweet sounds which they sent forth, ravished in ecstasy, and almost delirious, he exclaimed thus without noticing "O what a wonderful instrument this is! Just
its bellows are worth more than all the Cardinals of your Council!"
A few miles beyond Trent the land begins to become sterile and boggy, the air bad, the people enervated; enough about that. Finally one arrives at San Michele, the border of the two Tirols, but a miserable and unhealthy little spot. Here the language changes; here one begins to thear the guttural and corrupt accents of the Tirolian Germans, who give occasion to foreigners and especially to the Italians to make fun continually of a language as rich and beautiful as German, and sweet, if it is suavely articulated. Here is what Abate Casti says on the subject. The eminent Poet, in one of his very gracious stories, relates that a young woman, harrassed and insulted by a Moor, was called to an examination, and interrogated as to why she had let herself be insulted, answered that she was very afraid. - And who was he who insulted you? He told me that he was the devil! -What did he look like? -He was a robust man. - His face? -Black.- His hair? - Curly. - His nose? -Flat. - His mouth? - Oh, what a mouth! -and what language was he speaking? Here the malicious Casti observes "If he was the devil then it is natural that he speak German." Bravo, witty Casti! But it seems to me that he has forgotten that in Italy as well may be heard guttural and risible accents like those of the Tirolian Germans.
In fact the Florentine throat does not caress one’s ears. The speech of the Bolognese is certainly not worth an Alleluja by Padre Martini. And with respect to the execrable dialect of the Genoese, well, here one can say with more truth than Casti , o what a bedeviled tongue!
Now I would like to offer to the reader a sonnet by the celebrated Cavalier Clemente Vannetti, without doubting for a moment that it will be favorably received, and one in which will be found another criticism of the Tirolian Germans.

Sonnett
O Morocchesi, these valleys were
Made subject to the government of the
Tirol one day by accident; otherwise
We are Italians, not Tirolians;
And so that, in the judgement of the villages,
You may not go astray with the squint-eyed folk
Who do not see, and do not know the truth,
I have here set out a rule for you.
When you are in a place where you find
Speech turned to shouting, and the soil barren,
The sun in Capricorn in every season,
An immense flock of fat men and wagon-drivers,
Pointed houses, and rotund folk,
Then say to yourself: here is the Tirol.


Bravo Vannetti as well! But even if the German Tirol ends at San Michele and at Mezzo
Lombardo, and if we are not originally true Tirolians, it must be allowed that at
Trent, at Roveredo and also at Ala is spoken a very correct Italian, and there one meets
often round heads which may draw forth compassion.

Home